Wien

Oh Vienna.

Here, pictures failed me as did video (literally, since my battery died). I wasn't entirely sure what to expect, but was excited to see such a legendary city. We found the expected lavish buildings with beautiful architecture everywhere. It's absurd, but we're getting used to turning corners only to come face to face with some ancient glory soaring up into the sky.

We lost no time discovering the city and stumbled into a small market set out in a square. Breads, wiener schnitzel, beer and wine of all sorts were for sale. In the corner near a large fountain lay a pile of pumpkins and kids sat around carving while a dog ran around trying to lick up pumpkin guts. I was thrilled the see the people of Vienna enjoy Halloween as much as I do. Well, almost.

As we'd arrived late, the sky was already fading to its midnight hue while we wandered, happening upon a palace in the city center where a young man in a tuxedo sat before the entrance playing the cello. People tossed coins into his case, but he didn't seem aware of anything outside of his music, which filled the whole square from top to bottom. As we entered the palace grounds, one of the girls I was with explained that some cities require street musicians to not only get permission to perform, but audition for the honor. Otherwise, you can be arrested.

The palace was stunning, as was the entire city, carefully lit to make each terrace glow. We walked until night had fully engulfed us on all sides.

The rest of our short time was filled with palaces, markets and, of course, great pastries. The Schönbrunn Palace may be my favorite place in Europe. It was the summer home to the Hapsburgs, who ruled Austria (and sometimes Prague) for centuries. The building itself dwarfed anything I've ever seen and it took ages to walk around the outside. We finally gave up and found a way straight through the middle, which spit us out into the most magnificent gardens. They stretched away from us in every direction, perfectly symmetrical (I may finally understand how Elizabeth Bennet and Mr. Darcy managed to pass so much time wandering through gardens). We made our way past the oldest zoo in the world, a labyrinth and The Fountain of Neptune to crest a sizable hill and reach the Gloriette, a light, airy building that overlooks the city. It was built for glory, it now houses a cafe. And that cafe offers Kanne Coffee, so you know it's the best of them all.

Inside the palace everything was decorated in Baroque style with posh chairs and bright paintings, some covering entire walls and all of them hung in gilt frames. Gold was everywhere and on everything and chandeliers lit each room with massive amounts of candles. I wonder how they handled all that dripping wax? Every inch of every wall, floor, ceiling and desk was textured and painted and glossed and splashed with gold.

Schönbrunn's Hall of Mirrors was more a large room than a hall, and was my favorite because it meant standing where Mozart played for the royal family at age six. I'm stalking Mozart through Europe, and not even on purpose.

In one room was a portrait of a 15 year old Marie Antoinette “in hunting dress.” I couldn't help thinking how that little girl was soon to be beheaded. A Hapsburg, she was married off to France's King Louis XVI, probably not long after that portrait was completed. Her mother had said of marriage “you make a vow at 15 you barely understand, then spend the next 30 years regretting it.” She wasn't in Vienna very often, but saw 11 daughters grow up to be married off for political reasons. One of them loved her husband.

Palaces aside, Vienna's culture seems somehow more accessible than Prague or even Budapest. The people were lively, animated and very friendly. I honestly wouldn't mind centering the rest of my European venture in Vienna. We'll see.